This Issues Libations

Cover artwork/illustration explanation

Barchives
The Herbert Asbury 1927 Jerry Thomas article conclusion

Old Drink Book Reviews
1879 “American & other Drinks”, by Leo Engel

Industry Bar/Beverage Sales 2009 (not too bad)

Warning
Infusions violate the law

Barometer
F acts, assumptions, consumer trends, surveys, etc.

Cocktails and Drinks
Some older Classic Cocktails

Sidebar
Old Drink Menu

Bar Humor
Proof of global warming

Last Call Cocktails
New classics, and weirdos

Readers of this site should be of legal drinking age (LDA)
in the state or country where they reside.

Any and all information published on this website are the opinions of the
author, who is in no way responsible for actions of the readers

Members of the eating and drinking establishment trade are expected to
adhere to the practice of “RESPONSIBLE BEVERAGE SERVICE”

Cover artwork illustration

This fine line drawing is from the old drink book review in this issue, titled, American & other Drinks”, by Leo Engel. More of these drawings will be illustrated in same.

Barchives

Conclusion of the Herbert Asbury, Jerry Thomas article of 1927

Mr. Thomas was very fortunate after his death to have a champion of Mr. Asbury’s creative writing ability and popularity. Obviously in turn, Mr. Thomas’ life was quite beneficial to Mr. Asbury (multiple books published), somewhat like a reciprocal trade agreement I would assume. One of the elements of Mr. Thomas’s life that has always intrigued me, was his constant need to be on the move (he worked in approximately 22 different establishments), which I originally thought of in a negative way. My mistake.

I believe the motivation for our Professor’s extensive, varied career, was a result of constantly attempting to learn something new about the profession. I mean if you are on the same job a number of years, there must be some need to acquire new knowledge or skills to further your career, unless you can really be satisfied staying in a life time position, in the same establishment. And in reality the other question that arises in my mind, is how many years can a bartender bartend? And what are your other options? And what does a bartender do after retirement?

My career could be considered sporadic, or gypsy like, as over a period of 22 years, I had approximately 15 or 16 bartender jobs. Scary! But I kept wanting to learn something new, in different styles of operations. The longest positions I had were at the “21’ (four and a half years), the “Little Club” (two years), and the Frascati Grill in West Hollywood (five years).

But in between I worked in all kind of different operations, ie: hotel, race track, resort, airport, catering, Playboy Club, dives, night club, commuter bar, gourmet restaurants, etc. I believe this varied job experience and background allowed me to create the first corporate beverage directors position, as well as other entities I was able to develop over the years. So Mr. Jerry, please excuse me for having somewhat negative thoughts about your varied career, as obviously you were on your quest also. I salute you!

Old Drink Book Review

American & other Drinks. Upwards of Two Hundred of the Most Approved Recipes, for Making the Principal Beverages Used in the United States and Elsewhere”, by Leo Engel, of the Criterion, late of New York City, U.S.A. (London, 1878)

The book, published in 1878 in London by Tinsley Brothers (8 Catherine Lane) had gilt-decorated cloth-bound covers, 73 pages, filled with 202 beverage recipes, numerous black and white ads, and superb illustrations of various bar utensils.

This book has created some controversy, at two levels. The first is the claim that this was the first European published book about American Drinks. If I refer to my old Barchives Collection as a guide, as well as other bibliographic and reference books, I concur with this claim, as the records indicate no other books of the genre (American Drinks), were published prior to this tome. If readers can locate one, it’s my turn to buy a round or two.

The second controversy was whether or not Mr. Engel obtained most of his recipes from the 1862 and 1876 editions of Jerry Thomas’ Bartender Guides. As far as I am concerned, why not. I believe most of the older, late 1800’s cocktail recipe books are derived from other books that contained recipes, and quite often from early cookery books. Once Oxford Nightcaps evolved, with multiple editions, the trend was on, with many authors, and potential authors, and publishers, entering a growing business. All that was required was duplicating recipes, modifying same, adding or deleting products, portions, and possibly changing the recipe’s name. In addition numerous publishers would change the title and cover format to print the same book again and again. Whee, making money.

In a tribute to the brevity, aplomb, confidence, and chutzpah of Mr. Engel, and/or his publisher, I would like to quote from the preface, and I recommend all bartenders digest this preface, in an attempt to observe poetry at work, as well as resume enhancement, to say the least.

Preface

“Oh! That men should put an enemy in their mouths to steal away their brains!” These few words, culled from a work of the immortal Shakespeare, must speak volumes in favor of those “Cooling Drinks” so artistically concocted to tickle the palate of mankind.

“The Americans, to whom we are indebted for a great number of ingenious inventions that have added greatly to the human race, were the first to introduce these wholesome and invigorating Refreshers. For many years they only flourished in the United States, but have at last become acclimatized in every quarter of the globe, and are now the acknowledged drink in all Bacchanalian revels. Every great city now boasts of it’s “Alabama Fogcutters”, Connecticut Eye-openers”, “Lightning Smashers”, Boston Nose-Warmers”, “Magnetic Crushers”, “Galvanic Lippouters”, “Josey Ticklers”, and “Leo Coaxers”. It occurred to the author of this work that it was only right that the public should be made acquainted with the precise manner in which these drinks are manipulated, there being a vast difference in both their flavor and effect if made from a proper recipe. Leo, during his lengthy sojourn in America, collected an unlimited number of original and other recipes for “Drinks”, and has become a great benefactor to the British nation.

“Parr and Morrison may have contributed by their skill to health, but it has been reserved for Leo to look after both the health and spirit, and we feel certain no that no one will deny that the social drinks he has popularized in this country have added to the comfort and enjoyment of all classes of the community, from His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales to the most humble of Her Majesty’s subjects. It is our intention to select from his gigantic catalog of recipes upwards of two hundred various compounds, each of which has been extensively patronized by the bon vivants of every country, and to explain in this little volume the best method of concocting them; so that in the future there will be no excuse for anyone that happens to have this book in the library ever again imbibing any of those “villainous compounds” so often met with. Having made this liberal promise, we shall now take our leave, make our bow, and, like Perri in Lalla Rookh, exclaim-

Joy, joy for ever, my task is done;
The gate is passed, the haven is won”.

One has to admit, this is one hell of a promo introduction for a bartender’s book. We don’t see that type of an endorsement in this century, nor probably the last. A question that comes to my mind is how much was Leo being paid as a bartender, because I am pretty sure gratuities were not a British custom in those days.

BUT……surprisingly, after all the praises of these American Refreshers, their recipes are not included in this book. How rude! I would imagine readers perusing this book would have turned to those recipes first, but alas, there are no recipes or formulas for “Alabama Fogcutters”, “Connecticut Eye-openers”, Lightning Smashers”, Boston Nose-Warmers”, “Magnetic Crushers”, “Galvanic Lippouters”, “Josey Ticklers”, and/or “Leo Coaxers”.

We do have recipes for Mint Juleps, Egg Noggs, Prairie Oysters, Bosom Caresser, Alabazam, etc., but none for the afore-mentioned refreshers. The book lists fifty five recipes for Punches, and twenty one Leo’s Specialties, which include American Drinks. Then we have The Knickebein, which contains 1/3 rd Curacao, Noyeau, and Maraschino. Fill a Port wine glass two-thirds full with these ingredients. Then float the unbroken yolk of a new laid egg on the surface of the liquor, add the whisked egg white from the same egg on the yolk, and add a few drops of Angostura on top. Then there are specific directions on how to consume this unique concoction, and note this process is registered ( I wonder where?).

Directions For Taking The Knickebein
(Registered)

1. Pass the glass under the Nostrils and Inhale the Flavour. – Pause.
   
2. Hold the glass perpendicularly, close under your mouth, open it wide, and suck the froth by drawing a Deep Breath. – Pause again.
   
3. Point the lips and take one-third of the liquid contents remaining in the glass without touching the yolk. – Pause once more.
   
4. Straighten the body, throw the head backward, swallow the contents remaining in the glass all at once, and at the same time breaking the yolk in your mouth.

I recommend consuming this drink while in formal attire, and taking contortionist lessons.

A few other recipes that may be of interest are:

No. 184 – Girard Flip
So styled after the famous grotesque dancers of that name, being their favorite beverage when thoroughly exhausted after their terpsichorean eccentricities. In a tumbler place the yolk of an egg, to this add about a teaspoon of noyeaux; a dash of cayenne pepper; a half glass of brandy; a gill of ice. Fill up with new milk, shake well and strain. Cirque du soleil?

No. 195 – Heap of Comfort
One new laid egg; liqueur glass Maraschino; liqueur glass of brandy; Cayenne pepper according to taste; gum syrup. Shake up well with ice and strain into a cocktail glass.

Not sure this is the appropriate name for this drink, and did they keep chickens in the bar?

Industry Bar/Beverage Sales

U.S. Census Bureau News Bulletin of February 12, 2010 indicates January sales for Eating and Drinking Establishments increased +0.6%, compared to a year earlier. The decline in bar/beverage sales for 2009 was less than expected, which would seem to offer growth possibilities for forward looking management in the current year.

The National Restaurant Association predicts restaurant food and beverage sales in 2010 could improve 1.2% for Full Service restaurants, 3.0% for Limited Service Restaurants, 4.6% for Lodging Places, and 2.0% for Bars & Taverns.

Technomic estimates for 2009 indicated Fine Dining down -10.4%, Casual Dining -6.8%, Casinos -5.0%, and Bars & Clubs down –0.6%, with real growth commencing in 2011.

Beer sales in 2009 declined -2.2%, with Anheuser-Busch Imbev, MillerCoors, Crown Imports, Heineken, Pabst, Diageo/Guinness, and Labbatt experiencing the results of the recession and the trend from on premise consumption. Boston Beer, Yuengling and numerous micro breweries/craft beers experienced small growth.

Wine sales were up 2.1%, with most of the growth in the less expensive brands. Wine sales in restaurants, especially fine dining, decreased from 6 to 10%. Even California wines had a -1.6% decline in sales. With the consumer desire for more value oriented wines (less than $15.00 a bottle), there has been a definite trend for imported wines well below this price point. This trend must be taken into consideration when planning new wine lists.

Spirits had an interesting year with slightly higher volume, but decreased revenue due to consumers seeking less expensive brands, especially at the on premise level. Value brands increased market share to 40.6%, while premium, high-end and super premium brands experienced declines. Vodka, Rum, Tequila had growth mostly with value and premium brands. Whiskey such as Bourbon, Canadian, Scotch declined, while Irish, Single Malt Scotch, and blended whiskey sales increased. It appears that certain distillers/importers will continue to discount prices in an effort to maintain or improve market share.

All of the above estimates are preliminary, and most include on and off premise sales.

Warning – Infusions violate the law

The California Alcoholic Beverage Control Department is beginning to enforce their Section 23355 Business and Professional Code, as it pertains to infusions, bitters, elixirs, etc., prepared by bar staff to enhance artisinal/culinary cocktail formulations.

It is legal to sell infused alcohol produced by a distiller. But if a licensee places fresh fruit, purees, herbs, spices, vegetables, etc. into a bottle of distilled spirits (vodka, gin rum, etc.), it is viewed as placing a foreign product into that alcohol, and that is considered a violation of the law. You can still prepare cocktails by adding other products, instantly, into the mixing container (mixing glass, shaker, blender), then stirring, shaking or blending the drink, and serving directly to the customer. And I would assume pre-batching Sangria will also be viewed with disfavor by the agency.

This is one of those outdated laws intiated after the repeal of prohibition. Another oldie law was that you had to immediately break the bottle after emptying. This was done by either breaking the bottles in a trash container, or cracking the neck of the empty bottle on a hooded metal peg attached to the front of the workbench/underbar. My last occasion of this exercise resulted in a bloody severed artery for mois, though I could then make fresh Bloody Marys.

Barometer (facts/assumptions/consumer trends/surveys, etc.)

• Prohibition/Speakeasy concepts will begin to moderate
  
• Classic Cocktails will continue to be popular
  
• Spirit flavor extensions will continue to expand as distillers seek to increase sales
  
• Microbreweries and Artisan/Craft Beers will continue to grow, though slowly
  
• Artisan/Craft/Culinary/Molecular Cocktails will begin to moderate
  
• Bar/Restaurants (aka Bar & Grills), should have most of the growth in 2010, and have a good chance at sustained growth
  
• Eating at the bar will continue to increase, which will result in needed space planning. Again, “It’s more fun to eat at the bar, than drink in the restaurant”.
  
• Lunch business will continue to be a Fast Food experience
  
• The Tiki Bar concept should continue to grow, if properly planned
  
• Two thirds of the population will continue to consume adult beverages

Some Old Classic Cocktails

These recipes are from an older mixed drink book, but should be worthy of consideration.

Alamagoozium Cocktail (for 10 people)
3 oz. Jamaica Rum
3 oz. Yellow Chartreuse
1 oz. Angostura Bitters
1 oz. Curacao
3 oz. Gum Syrup
6 oz. Holland Gin
1 White of Egg
shake well with ice and strain.

This should be for six people, and it does offer a unique flavor mélange, and yes, it has more Genever than Doc’s.

Volga Cocktail
2 oz. Vodka
1 oz. orange juice
1 oz. lemon juice
1/3 rd teaspoon Angostura Bitters
2/3 rd teaspoon Grenadine
shake well with ice and strain

Surprisingly this recipe is from a 1945 recipe manual, before the Vodka boom.

Old Drink Menu

Note the Martini offers.

Sidebar

Last Call Cocktails

New Classics:

Ethel
1 ½ oz. North Shore Aquavit
¾ oz. Galliano l’Authentico
3 dashes Sirene Absinthe
spoon of quality Orange Marmalade
¾ oz. lemon juice
¼ oz. simple syrup (1:1 unrefined)
shake and strain all ingredients into a pre-chilled cocktail coupe. Orange peel oil spray.

Red Light
1 ¼ oz. Bols Genever
1 ¼ oz. Grand Marnier
1/3 oz. Underberg Bitters
Stir & strain into prechilled cocktail coupe
This is a challenging concoction, and you have to make it, just to see that it works.

Both of these concoctions were created by Charles Joly, Chief Mixologist at The Drawing Room on Rush Street in Chicago, a major, classy, exciting bar & cocktail scene of the city.

Weirdos:

With the recent surge of Absinthe popularity, we should include a couple of strange recipes for this product, ie:

Absinthe of Malice
1 ½ oz. of Absinthe over ice with two dashes of Angostura, Peychaud’s, Regan’s Orange, Celery, and Peach Bitters. Bonne chance!

Absinthe Minded (good combination)
2 oz. Bombay Original Gin
½ oz. dry sherry
½ oz. Absinthe
Stir and strain into pre-chilled cocktail glass
Flamed orange peel garnish

Different Weirdos:

Boilerfaker
A 1 ½ oz. shot of Bourbon with a non-alcoholic beer chaser

Bloody Awful
¾ oz. Metaxa
¾ oz. Sloe Gin
3 oz. Tomato Juice
shake well, and throw down the drain

The next issue of thebarkeeper.com will be posted on April 1, 2010